Just completed a Knight Crusader. I tried to photograph at the end of each stage but to be honest I was less than thorough so what we have is about half the stages photographed…
Easy enough – the whole skeleton apparatus was sprayed with Vallejo gunmetal over a black undercoat. Used the modelcolour with flow improver as my model air gunmetal ran out. Nice and even spray though. All a bit flat though. I then painted a coat of Agrax Earthshade over the whole and once that was dry drybrushed with silver and airbrushed a few areas where the light would fall such as the tops of the leg joints and gun barrel tops.
Then to provide some interest and contrast some random decorative bits were picked out in brass which was itself washed with fleshwash and agrax mixed. This gives what I think is a pleasing look.
As can be seen in this sideways picture of a leg. Pistons were painted silver and nuln oil run into cracks and crevasses after a gloss varnish. Meanwhile in another part of the galaxy the interesting bits were being painted…
The majority of the panels were painted off model and as the whole had to be House Terryn - as the only decals that came in the Original Renegades Knight only came with Terryn decals. Anyway that meant blue and some nice modulation on the panels. These are big enough for this to pack some punch as an effect. Vallejo blues were used. Once the blues were established it was time to mask off the completed work and get on with next stage, the red.
Masking is easy on these big models and is done by a mix of Tamiya masking and Vallejo fluid. Then the reds were applied. The biggest pain after this is removing the latex masking fluid but once done its starting to look like something. The reality has more contrast than these photos and is increased by glazes and by edging after a solid gloss varnish.
I also did one of the shoulder guards in hazard stripes because of cool! This was easier than I imagined as I cut a thin straight strip of masking and put it down the middle on a diagonal. All the others were placed by eye as the curve made measuring difficult. The yellow was applied over a coat of sand which acts as a good base. It was then faded by adding a bit of a sandy colour to the yellow.
All the off model carapace parts were then put aside and those bits which couldn’t be painted off model were done. To stop any airbrush paint hitting the skeleton the mix of masking tape and fluid was supplemented by clingfilm and the whole modulation business repeated.
It’s a bit of a faff but works well as can be seen below taken at about three stages further after all the trim was painted, the whole glossed, nuln oil run into the cracks and crannies and even the decals added….
Similarly I forgot to snap the same stages on the armour plates which can be seen below after the same stages. I think I got carried away by the fun stages.
This shot shows the contrast much better as well as the wash on the gold edging which will need highlighting. I had no decal for the Terryn writing to go on the chestplate so was a bit wary of my freehand Gothic skills…
Fortunately this was not as difficult as I had imagined and it turned out reasonably well. Not perfect but pretty good. As a word of caution if you try this make sure you aren’t an idiot and do it upside down the first time as this can lead to a bruised forehead….you never stop learning!
Next is a picture of all the carapace parts after matt varnishing. While I realise enormous death robots aren’t going for camouflage I also don’t see them being painted in Dulux gloss and even if they were this dulls to matt in the weather.
The skeleton was not matt varnished to retain a more metallic feel. Then it was time to put it all together for the first time. As you can see this is a big boy, too big for my cheapo self-made photo booth.